Allegra Restaurant: Designing The Details
Words by Tessa Pearson
Photography by Ola O. Smit
From the interior finishes to the provenance of the ingredients, every element of east London’s Allegra Restaurant has been executed with the utmost care and attention to detail. Tessa Pearson spoke to the restaurant’s head chef, Patrick Powell, and stylist Alex Kristal about the custom tableware series the pair commissioned in a bid to reflect this ethos.
Have you ever surreptitiously peeked underneath a restaurant plate wondering where you can purchase something similarly beauteous for your own table? You’re not alone. And we’re pretty sure that diners at The Stratford’s Allegra Restaurant will have been doing the same since it opened in 2019. A sleek and soulful space that flows out onto lushly planted terraces with sweeping views across the city, Allegra is an exceptional dining experience set atop the seven-storey east London hotel. The concept is the brainchild of Manhattan Loft Corporation’s Harry Handelsman – the developer behind both the Chiltern Firehouse and
St Pancras Renaissance Hotel – who brought in former Chiltern Firehouse chef Patrick Powell to head up this elevated, produce-led dining destination.
“The entire restaurant has been a real labour of love,” says Patrick. “Space Copenhagen designed the interior and their approach is meticulous: everything in the room has a reason for being there. Harry and I wanted the food and presentation to reflect this, so rather than selecting off-the-shelf tableware designs, we decided to work with makers who would really understand the venture.” To help with the commissioning process, Harry and Patrick enlisted the expertise of London-based stylist and creative director, Alex Kristal. Alex worked on the project from concept to completion, distilling the brief, sourcing the makers and guiding the design process in line with Patrick’s vision.
We take a really nice piece of meat, fish or a vegetable and try to make it as delicious as possible. No messing around: I like food to be simple and honest.
“We started with a few clear parameters, but the brief definitely evolved over time,” says Alex. “Patrick wanted the pieces to be understated and versatile with a handcrafted feel, and to provide a textural backdrop to the food without competing.” Timelessness was an important consideration, too. “No faddy shapes or glazes,” Patrick adds. “We needed everything to wear well and look just as good in ten years’ time, much like the room.”
To this end, every item needed to be incredibly robust. The crockery, in particular, had to withstand chemical dishwashing, dumbwaiters and countless busy services. While keeping these practical considerations in mind, Alex and Patrick narrowed material choices down to rich-hued clays, glazed ceramics, charred ash and pale sycamore, and kept colours soft and muted – think soft greys and accents of teal.
“The space was a building site while I worked on the project, so I called in as many of the designers’ material samples as possible,” remembers Alex, who devised the palette to work in harmony with the restaurant’s refined and tactile mix of finishes. The interior stylist looked to other restaurants in Space Copenhagen’s portfolio – such as Noma – for inspiration, finding synchronicity between Patrick’s dishes and the pared-back Danish design aesthetic. “The food at Allegra is very seasonal and produce-driven,” Patrick elaborates. “We take a really nice piece of meat, fish or a vegetable and try to make it as delicious as possible. No messing around: I like food to be simple and honest.”
When it came to sourcing the makers, Patrick was keen to support the local creative community as much as possible. “I was aware there were some great ceramicists in east London, but I was amazed with the abundance of talent that Alex discovered,” he says. The duo created a shortlist from images of work they admired, then visited studios and commissioned samples to make their final selection. This included ceramics by Owen Wall and Sue Pryke, and wooden pieces by Luke Hope and Adam Kester of Bird & Branch Turnery Co.
“It was a great experience and Alex understood the project very quickly, which was a huge help,” says Patrick, adding that the bread service was perhaps the most rewarding series to commission. “There is something very beautiful and symbolic about breaking bread with friends and family,” he muses. “Adam crafted the fantastic charred bread boards, Sue created gorgeous butter knives out of clay and Owen made the incredible butter dishes for us.”
For Owen Wall, who was tasked with creating 1200 items of tableware, the commission was a substantial undertaking. “I have made 400-odd pieces for restaurants in the past, but this was a step up. I even had to buy a new kiln,” says the Enfield-based ceramicist. “I think Alex put together a really nice set of finishes that worked well together. My favourite glaze is a textured white that’s on the larger plates and the small bread plate, which actually came about as an unexpected result.”
The butter knife, which sits on the bread plate, is a highlight for Alex. “I sent some visuals to Sue Pryke, who created a series of preliminary models carved in plaster for us to see and hold,” she recalls. “We were trying to marry it up with Owen’s design and it had to balance on his dish. It’s simple but very beautiful.” The size of the knife and how it felt in the hand was of paramount importance to Sue, who wanted it to have a weighty, “reassuring heaviness” to it. “From the design to the food, the attention to detail on every level of the Stratford project was astounding,” she says. “When the temperature of the butter is a discussion point behind the scenes, then you know that the knife you use with it is definitely going to be important.”
With this in mind, one can’t help but wonder if, after over a year of use, these painstakingly made pieces are still passing muster. “They’re ageing well and some have worn in a way that further enhances how they look, giving them even more character,” affirms Patrick. “I’m really happy with everything we commissioned; the pieces all sit beautifully together and always receive a lot of compliments.” Considering the time and talent that’s been invested in this project, it’s no surprise to learn that it’s proving a success on all fronts – resulting in a destination restaurant that looks set to be as enduring as its design.
Allegra
London
allegra-restaurant.com
The Stratford
20 International Way,
Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park,
London, E20 1FD
