Gluts and Gluttony

15 Sept

Interview and Photography by Lindsay Radcliff

We caught up with Kathy Slack, founder of Gluts and Gluttony. In her day to day, she can be found in her vegetable patch, harvesting the seasons best or in her kitchen, creating delicious recipes from them. Not only is she a talented cook, she also regularly writes about food for some of the biggest names in the UK. We speak to her about the benefits of the vegetable patch and how it has helped so many of us through these tough past few months. She shares some knowledge for any budding green fingers still waiting to get started.

How did you start your journey as an organic grower and cook?

I worked in advertising for 12 years. It was high-pressured, cut throat and there was lots of international travel. I had huge work anxiety and eventually had a big old burnout. I was signed off sick for six months. I couldn’t do anything, even getting out of bed was a struggle. My mother would have to coax me into the garden with tea. One day, I threw some old seeds into the soil and, unbelievably, they grew. I planted more and slowly became more adventurous. It became a kind of therapy. When I eventually decided to leave my job officially, I was confronted by the quandary of what to do next and decided it had to be about vegetables. I contacted Jez, who manages the market garden at Daylesford and said “I’ve just quit my job and want to grow vegetables for a living”. He gave me a chance, but said it would only be for the summer. Then a job came up at the cookery school and I started taking on private chef jobs and other exciting opportunities began to trickle in.

What’s your approach to cooking and eating?

For me, there’s no difference between cooking and growing, it’s all part of the same process. I can’t tell when the growing stops and the cooking begins. Nature guides me and as a result my food tends to be blousy and convivial. I don’t like tidy food.

When we last spoke, you mentioned the connection between growing vegetables and mental health. This seems more pertinent than ever. Why do you think so many of us turned to gardening and growing vegetables during lockdown?

It gives a sense of agency when ones lost control in other areas of life. It’s reassuring that a lot of our daily worries are inconsequential in the grand the scheme of things. The circle of life continues and the sun still rises every morning. Quite simply, growing vegetables is good for the soul.

What advice would you give someone who wants to start an organic vegetable patch?

Start with easy wins and set yourself up for success. Don’t choose something like brassicas, which are very needy and a faff to grow. They take up lots of space and are very susceptible to pests. Focus on things like lettuce or courgettes which are relatively fool-hardy. You just put them in the ground and they usually grow. Courgettes are a terrific beginner plant. Find a good organic seed supplier. Garden organic and Tamar Organic are very good.

For me, there’s no difference between cooking and growing, it’s all part of the same process. I can’t tell when the growing stops and the cooking begins.

After a busy day, what's your favourite dish to come home and make?

One of my favourite things to make after a busy day is a frittata. It’s quick and always very satisfying. You can chuck in whatever you’ve got from the patch. Yesterday, I made one with courgette and spinach.

What is your favourite vegetable to have too much of?

For taste, it would have to be beetroot as it’s so versatile and stores really well. You can pickle it, make chutney with it, puree and freeze it, roast it or I love making a beetroot granita.